Kaifeng

• TIPS: Bills come with a mandatory 15% - yes, 15%! - service charge. This is for all party sizes. When I suggested to the waitress that this was a little high, she got her manager over, who suggested 15% was more than appropriate given the fine dining surroundings. "It's been like this for 25 years," she said, "and you're the first person to complain." Given that this is a kosher restaurant, and we Jews are, shall we say, not shy about disputing unfair charges, I found this a little rich.
  
• DO: Come here only on special occasions, as it ain't cheap, but the food, especially the shredded duck + pancakes, is undeniably yummy. I once asked them for their duck recipe: they apparently marinate it for about three days, deep fry it and then hang it to dry (or something like that) for another 24 hours. In other words, don't even think about trying this at home.
  
• DON'T Argue with the manager, as she has little time for stingy oiks who don't think their surly staff deserve the full 15% service charge (which may or may not go directly to the waitresses, but I was too intimidated by the manager to ask).